tuna ceviche, blood orange, capers, ponzu, togarashi, sesame, pickled salad and mayonnaise
I have no life on week nights. Not that it’s by choice; I work every week night (except for Fridays because when the clock strikes 5pm on Friday? I doesn’t become “night”, it becomes “end” and I don’t work weekends). And even if I didn’t work, my idea of life on a week night pretty much constitutes going to get gelato in my pjs. But I digress. Point is, I never go out on week nights, but when an email arrived in my inbox inviting me to a private dinner at BLACK by ezard hosted by chef Teage Ezard himself, what am I supposed to do?
I took the night off, of course.
BLACK by ezard has always oozed mystery to me. There are a handful of fine dining restaurants at The Star, but BLACK is hidden behind its heavy wooden fascade and I’ve always wanted to know what lay behind the big wooden doors.
And now I know. The wooden doors open onto the restaurant floor, decked out completely in dark, sexy opulence with floor to ceiling glass walls facing the stunning Sydney skyline. The main restaurant area is stunning: cosy yet polished, buzzy yet private. Amazingly, our dinner was to be served in BLACK’s private Onyx room. Decadent does not even begin to describe this room.
But you know me. Room schroom. I care much more about the food
As we settled into our room and Teage talked a little about the restaurant, its history, his history, we were served these cute little loaves of brioche. I don’t normally blog about bread but this brioche almost deserves its own post! Warm and velvet soft, it was perfect on its own but paired with butter and volcanic salt? Holy crap, yes. If this was a sign of things to come, I’m excited.
Teage explained our menu for the night, a six course tasting menu with two preview dishes which will hit the menu this Wednesday. One of them was the first course, a tuna ceviche (top) so refreshing I could have had a larger serve, or you know, in between every course as a palate cleanser.
Another newbie, the chilled Spencer Gulf prawn was also good, heavily influenced by Asian flavours of coconut, Thai basil and crispy shallots. Teage toyed with the idea of including mango in this dish, so don’t be surprised if you see it laced with the sweetness of mango, especially in the summer.
chilled Spencer Gulf prawns, roasted chilli dressing, avocado, salad of young coconut,
pomelo, Thai basil and crispy shallots
We then moved onto the mains for the night, all of which were delicious. The panfried mulloway and its crispy skin again impressed me. I seem to always be impressed by perfectly cooked fish. Am I just that sucky at cooking fish at home?
panfried mulloway, sesame salt, brown butter, capers, gremolata oil, soft herbs and lemon
The lamb – my favourite main – so absolutely simple, its tastes brought out by the amazing roasted garlic jus.
lamb rack with mustard, herb and black olive crust, Jerusalem artichokes, roasted garlic jus
We finished the mains with the soy caramelised oxtail. The oxtail was super tender, complemented well by the earthy enoki, mushroom soil and the creamiest, butteriest mash I’ve had for a long time.
soy caramelised oxtail, celeriac cream, Sichuan peppered enoki, chive and crispy taro salad, mushroom soil
We were lucky enough to try all the sides on the menu. There were a few salads but you know, they’re just salads. My favourites were the mac ‘n cheese (no pic, sorry!), crispy potato and oh my goodness, the parsnip fritters Blew. My. Mind.
parsnip fritters with coconut and tumeric caramel
crispy potato with crème fraiche, smoked bacon and aged cheddar
After the mains, we went to the bathroom and undid our pants. Well, maybe I did. I was full but we had one more course to wrap up the night, and Teage impressed us with this chocolate globe which dissolved under a stream of warm couverture ganache, exposing its innards of dulce de leche ice cream and peanut butter mousse. So decadent, so delicious, so almost licked my plate.
chocolate globe, warm couverture ganache, dulce de leche ice cream, peanut butter mousse
BLACK by ezard, with its one chef’s hat, is one of those venues which is sure to impress – be it a high powered business meeting or a romantic date night. The food is spot on, I couldn’t fault any of it, and the service – the sommelier, the restaurant manager, all the wait staff – is impeccable.
I couldn’t even fit in tea after this meal and rolled on home happy as can be.
BLACK by ezard
Level G, Harbourside, The Star
80 Pyrmont Street
Pyrmont, NSW, 2009
(02) 9657 9109